SENSORIAL PROFILE ANTICIPATION BY ENGINEERING OBJECTIVEMETHODS FOR COMPETITIVENESS IN TEXTILE FIELD

The research investigates the potential of the objective anticipation of fabrics’ sensorial properties. Sensoriality represents a key-factor in textiles field and the possibility in determining subjective perceptions is assumed as an opportunity for competitiveness. In accordance with purpose, the research group first identified the most influential sensorial properties (i.e. softness, smoothness and warmth) and we associated them to subjective perceptions. Then we collected a significant sampling of fabrics and measured physical mechanical objective properties through both conventional and experimental tests. Finally, we compared tests results to users’ rankings. A group of 11 panellists – dived in three groups according to their own professional background – assessed sensorial properties of the sampling of fabrics in mono- (only sight and only touch) and multisensorial (both sight and touch) session. Recurring to statistical analysis methods, we verified the mechanical property – if present – best anticipating specific sensorial information. Two main results are sharing of subjective perceptions even among users with different background and a specific combination of two objective properties as reliable parameter for softness sensorial anticipation. The research group also attempted to propose a set of tools to make available the potential of the obtained results. To the purpose the concept of both sensorial Atlas of fabrics and softness label are here presented.