Ecodesign-driven material selection in fashion design: a methodological proposal and a mock-up tool

The textile sector is widely recognised as one of the most environmentally impactful industries, contributing substantially to greenhouse gas emissions, water consumption, and chemical pollution. A significant share of these impacts stems from the production, use, and end-of-life of the materials employed in fashion garments. Extending garment lifetimes thus represents a central chal- lenge in the fashion industry’s transition toward circularity. Although durability is acknowledged as a key principle of the circular economy, design practice often struggles to translate material performance into actionable ecodesign strategies to promote “use for longer” behaviours. In this context, ecodesign, understood as the integration of life-cycle thinking into product development, is increasingly emerging both as a regulatory requirement and as a strategic opportunity for textile manufacturers. This paper analyses the main regulatory frameworks for ecodesign in textiles. It examines relevant certification schemes, outlining key design principles through their integration with material-related information and material selection methodologies. By investigating how technical and sensory attributes of materials are addressed in fashion design practice, the study explores how these insights can inform ecodesign strategies that support both physical and emotional durability in fashion garments, ultimately guiding practitioners toward a more informed material selection process. Finally, the paper proposes a structured methodology for integrating ecodesign-driven material selection into industrial practice and presents a mock-up tool to support its implementation. The discussion highlights the opportunities and challenges associated with the proposed approach.